After three months of road travel, my (read, Camilo Mazo) journey through Colombia has finally come to an end. I traveled 3,800 km by car, starting from Medellín, making my way to Bogotá, and then continuing all the way to Santa Marta.
The goal of this trip was to see as many interesting destinations and visit as many historic towns as possible. Starting and ending in Medellín, the total stops were roughly 23: Doradal, Rio Claro, Puerto Triunfo, La Dorada, Norcasia, Honda, Guaduas, Bogotá, Villa de Leyva, Raquira, Laguna de Tota, Paipa, Mongui, Tunja, Guadalupe, Socorro, Barichara, Giron, Playa de Belen, Mompox, Rincón del Mar, Cartagena, and Minca.
The following are some of the things that I learned about Colombia and traveling in general.
The hidden gems
Colombia has much more to offer beyond the usual tourist destinations. I was impressed by the beautiful towns and places that often go unnoticed by both Colombians and foreign tourists. Honda, Mompox, Guadalupe, and Minca were among the places that surprised me the most. They are not only beautiful, but full of history and incredible nature, and they go unnoticed by most locals.
Travelling by car
Travelling on the road was surprisingly easy. I was expecting poor road conditions and difficult access to some places, but I mostly found well-maintained roads and highways. I did this trip in a Mazda 2 and never experienced any issues due to its low height.
Minca was one of the most challenging places to reach by car. Getting there was fine, but once inside, there is only one road that is wide enough for cars, while the others are narrow dirt roads with potholes not suitable for a small car. I ended up choosing an accommodation that was on the only easily accessible road mainly because of this.
Of course, traveling by car also influenced the places I visited. Originally, I wanted to go all the way to Punta Gallina, the northernmost point in Colombia, located in the Guajira Region. However, this region has very limited road infrastructure, so it is not recommended going there in any vehicle other than a 4×4.
On the subject of Guajira, another reason for not going was the lack of internet access in the region. I was working on my computer during the week, so having access to reliable internet was essential.
Highlights
The highlighted places of the trip, the places that I would definitely visit again, are:
- Rio Claro: A stunning river with impressive caves and cliffs. There are several hiking trails along the river, as well as bookable rafting tours available inside the reserve.
- Honda: Heritage town full of history. It was one of the wealthiest and most important port towns when the Magdalena River was the main method of transportation for commerce and passangers.
- Villa de Leyva: Beautifully preserved colonial town surrounded by pristine arid mountains. While it is a very popular destination for locals on weekends, during the week it offers a quieter and more relaxed town environment.
- Las Gachas, Guadalupe: Las Gachas river is one of the most bizarre and unique natural pools and small cave systems I’ve seen. Exploring the river, along with the walk to get there and the natural pools, is one of the most fun and enjoyable activities on this trip.
- Barichara: A cozy colonial town perched on a cliff with breathtaking views. The town’s distinctive color palette is attributed to the use of red stone as one of its main construction materials.
- Mompox: UNESCO heritage river town, which, much like Honda, was an important port town before the decline of the Magdalena River commerce. In the case of Mompox, the change in river flow left this town forgotten in time, only to be reborn as a beautiful tourist destination.
- Cartagena: One of the most popular tourist destinations in Colombia. This is a place to enjoy a cosmopolitan colonial town, full of amazing food, cultural activities, and, maybe most importantly, stunning colonial architecture.
- Minca: A paradise in the mountains. Not many places offer such a unique combination of lush jungle forests, mountains, and proximity to the sea.
Favorite accommodation
- La Veranda, Minca: This hotel has a deck with the best view of the entire trip. From here, you can see the lush jungle mountains, the sea, and the city of Santa Marta in the distance. I made it a point to be on this deck for every sunset.
- Nomad Hostel, Barichara: Located outside of town, this rural hostel is completely surrounded by nature. Cooking in the large kitchen with panoramic views of Barichara’s nature was definitely a highlight.
Favorite Plans
- La Candelaria Cacao Tour, Minca: The kindest and funniest tour guide, and the sheer amount of cacao preparations to be had, made this one of the most fun activities on this trip, but maybe that’s the cacao-induced endorphins talking.
- Movie nights, Corporación España, Cartagena: Every Wednesday night, a free movie screening in a beautiful open colonial courtyard with free popcorn.
- Banco de La Republica Libraries (Honda, Cartagena): These libraries offer a variety of cultural activities and are housed in beautiful buildings, such as the Bartolomé Library in Cartagena. They also have excellent air conditioning when you need it, especially in Honda, where the library was a safe haven during the hottest hours of the day.
Favorite Food
- Arepa Boyacense, Villa de Leyva: Warm, soft, cheesy arepa, enjoyed at the Saturday markets with a hot chocolate or coffee.
- Changua Soup — La Baguette de Oro, Villa de Leyva: Comfort in the form of food. Made with water, milk, egg, coriander, and crispy bread.
- Maizenitas — Dulces Maizenitas 1950, Socorro: Small, chewy, gummy, rice sweets. Bought a whole box and they quickly became my treasured treats. If I ever come across these maizenitas again, I will definitely buy at least a month’s worth of supply.
- Catfish, El Buen Sabor, Mompox: The best lunch I had on this trip was the river fish in Mompox. Here’s a pro-tip: while you can typically choose if you want it fried or in Criolla, an onion and tomato stew, order it both ways for the most amazing and indulgent fish.
