May 20th, 2024.

“Di dove sei? Cinese?”, Carmine, 52 years old, is asking me if I’m Chinese.

“Cinese? Colombia!” I reply, surprised from the mixed-up.

He gives me a blank stare, like saying, Chinese, Colombian, what difference does it make. I couldn’t agree more. He greeted me as I passed by his front gate. Just pass his gate, there’s a wide view of Naples hills and buildings. “Vuoi fare una foto?”, he asks. I hesitate for a moment, but take him on his offer, stepping pass the gate to take some pictures. After a while, he points at the terrace next to us. Maybe from that terrace you can see Mount Vesuvius, but not from here. When I turn back, his arm is across the gate, blocking the exit. He seems friendly enough, let’s entertain this for a bit, see where it leads.

A friend of his comes by. “Un vero Napoletano”, Carmine says, referring to his friend. He has no money, but he has seen the world. His friend lets out a laugh and jokes around with Carmine before going to work. “Buona Fortuna”, he says as he leaves. Carmine steps away from the gate to see the view. “Molto bello”, I comment. “Ma ch’e bello?” he replies, pointing at the deteriorated buildings in front. With the gate now clear, I thank him for inviting me and continue my walk. If you look for kind people, you will find them.

I keep walking without a clue of where I’m at. My phone stopped working yesterday. I’m not surprised, knowing what I put it trough on this trip. So, no maps, no GPS, just a general sense of direction. Walking by feel. I keep making mental notes. Ooh, I have to come back to this street, that street. So many places to come back to. I start writing the names of the streets. Via Salvator Rosa. Piazza Giuseppe Mazzini. Via Romanello. Via Romanello.

I stop by a modest neighborhood café. I ask for an espresso and sparkling water (acqua frizzante), my new favorite combo. The barista is mixing something at the counter. “Crema de Caffè”, he tells me, “Zucchero e caffè, vuoi un po’?”. “Si, per favore”.

I walk pass Piazza Dante, La Pignasecca Street Market, Quartieri Spagnoli, making my way to the last espresso at my favorite café in Naples, Gran Caffè Gambrinus. While not the most cozy, or friendliest, it’s a grandiose establishment that makes you feel like part of Naples history. Like saying, if you come here, and have a coffee, you’ll be immortalized, in a place that seems can and outlive any café in the world.

At the bar, it’s a struggle if you are not local. They will scrutinize you, the baristas. Measure you up. Not to worry, stand your ground, and they will leave you alone. Un espresso per favore. They toss the plate at your spot in a way they have seemed to master. It means nothing, a bit of Italian bravado, their ego is important, you know. To locals, they’ll serve water, still or sparkling. Ask yours like you deserve it, and they’ll give it to you too. “Acqua frizzante per favore”, not fliching.

How long should you take with your espresso at the bar? A period that you are barely comfortable enough, minus 5 minutes. That’s my made up rule of thumb. Enjoy the coffee, the history, the bravado, and the showmanship.

I walk to my favorite park at Statua di Augusto, with a view of Mount Vesuvius, the sea, and if it’s not the weekend, quiet and calm. Today is a day of top hits, the best of Naples. Gambrinus, this park, Piazza Dante, Via Port’Alba, Pizza at Gino e Toto Sorbillo, and Spritz. That’s the grandiose last day in Naples. What a city, the most danger I felt was crossing the streets. Reckless traffic. Fast. Delicious. Old. Magnificent.

After a walk, getting lost and found again, I stop at my favorite bar, Caffè dell’Epoca. Every afternoon, this place gets packed with locals looking for cheap and good Spritz. Close to Via Port’Alba, Piazza Bellini, but far enough from the business of Via dei Tribunali.

For my last dinner, Gino e Toto Sorbillo, where I also had my first pizza in Naples. Overall, pizza and experience, this is my favorite pizzeria, together with Pizzeria Trianon.

I think about ordering a pizza that’s not margherita. For the last four days, I’ve been eating only margherita, learning what makes a great staple pizza. Take away any toppings, and you are left with this base. The margherita is what makes or breaks the pizza, nowhere to hide.

The margherita pizza arrives. The dough is very soft, light, and chewy. Not crunchy. How can a pizza dough so soft be this good? Like biting a cloud. With every bite, I feel some tension releasing from my body.