Filandia is a colorful and small town in the coffee region of Colombia, recognized by UNESCO as cultural world heritage. Less famous than the neighboring town of Salento, Filandia offers a peaceful environment with beautiful countryside views. It’s also home of the Helena Adentro, acclaimed Colombian restaurant.
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How did I end up in a bar-turned-cave, drinking beer with two Japanese in Filandia? I met Keiko, the first Japanese, six months prior in Oaxaca, Mexico, during Día de Los Muertos. “I’m in Salento!” she wrote one day. I was in Caramanta, Antioquia, just north of Salento. I think I’m going to Filandia, she said. Great, let’s meet there.
From Caramanta to Filandia, I chose to drive through the town of Supia to save time, instead of taking the main road. Big mistake. The one-and-a-half-hour dirt road to Supia was painful. I was in a Mazda 2, a low clearance car. Any tall road obstacle meant backtracking and loosing 2 hours. Ironically, the only tough obstacle I found, a small uncleared landslide, was after the getting off the dirt road.
I got to Filandia in the afternoon. Meet me at this bar, Keiko wrote, I’m with friends. The bar, Cuevas de los Besos, was decorated as a cave with little booths for people to sit and drink. There she was, Keiko. The last time I saw her, we were dodging fireworks in Oaxaca’s Comparsas.
Her friends were from Salento. Two girls, talkative, and an older Japanese man. He had lived in Salento for a couple of decades and owned the Salento Japanese restaurant, Wabi. His Spanish was on point, and he was more talkative than the two Salentian girls. We had beers before they headed back to Salento for the night. I promised to try Wabi when in Salento.
I didn’t plan on being close to Filandia when Keiko wrote. I knew she was visiting Colombia, but not the dates nor the places. 2020 was the last time I visited Filandia, the last stop of my first backpacking trip in Colombia, right before COVID-19 lockdown. This coincidence of meeting Keiko in Filandia, I gladly took as a sign to continue exploring Colombia.
Places to eat in Filandia
⭐️ Helena Adentro / $$ / Google Maps
Helena Adentro is no-frills restaurant with a warm, casual environment, great-quality ingredients, and fair prices. Its renown in the coffee region and Colombia for its modern interpretation of Colombian dishes and ingredients. It’s also one of my favorite restaurants in Colombia.
Helena Adentro describes its food as tapas, small sharable plates, cocktails, sauces, and coffee. The menu is simple. My favorite was the Ensalada de Chicharron, slow-cooked and friend pork belly mixed with orange slices, red onion, cherry tomatoes, lime, and delicious, worship-inducing crunchy arepas. Try the patacones (fried squashed plantain), the yuca (cassava) croquettes with cheese and sweet red pepper sauce, and the coconut rice.
The space itself is warm, with an eclectic yet tasteful decoration and wide views of the countryside.
Jahn Café / $ / Google Maps
Conveniently located in the main park, with nice views of the park from the inside and attentive staff. It’s also computer work friendly, with outlets on some tables and good Wi-Fi.
A Comer Lechona Pues / $ / Google Maps
This simple restaurant sells the most delicious lechona empanadas. Lechona is baked pork stuffed with yellow peas and seasonings. The empanadas are fried corn dough stuffed with Lechona. A stuffing inside a stuffing? Double Inception deliciousness. This place was full of locals, with a big fryer at the back and a couple of tables to enjoy these greasy and marvelous empanadas.
Cueva de los besos / $$ / Google Maps
Two blocks from the main park, the inside of this cozy bar is fashioned as a cave, with quirky antique decoration and little intimate cave-booths to sit and have a drink.
Things to visit in Filandia
Parque principal / Free / Google Maps
One of the quaintest and colorful little main parks in Colombia. Antique public jeeps are parked on one side of the park, similar to Salento. Pick any café or bar around and enjoy the tranquility and the passing of time in this park.
Mirador Colina Iluminada / $$ / Google Maps
Twenty-seven meters high wooden structure with 360° views of the countryside and Filandia. Located on the edge of town, it’s a short and nice walk from the main park, passing small stores and some nature.
Accommodation in Filandia
Three House Hostel / $ / Booking.com
A hostel one block away from the main plaza, with affordable private rooms, a shared kitchen, and a small courtyard overlooking the countryside.
