While traveling the north of Thailand, I meet a French girl that recommended me doing a bike trip called “Mae Hong Son Loop”. I was intrigued.
I had never done anything like that before. After researching, I ended up doing one of the best and most unique experiences in my life, and it can be one of yours too.
What is the Mae Hong Son Loop?
The Mae Hong Son Loop is a multiple day, motorbike trip that passes through small towns and cities in the north of Thailand. Some of the places are:
- Chiang Mai
- Mae Chaem
- Mae Hong Son
- Ban Rak Thai
- Sappong
- Pai
- Back to Chiang Mai
Total travel distance: 710km
In a rush, you could do the loop in 5 days, but to really enjoy the trip, it’s best to do it in 7 days or more.
Driving a motorbike in rural Thailand? Are you nuts?
I know how it sounds, you may be thinking “I have never driven a bike before”, or “Thai roads must be crazy dangerous”. Let me tell you, I had never driven a bike before going to Southeast Asia. The first time was two weeks before the Mae Hong Son Loop when I rented a bike in Bali for a day.
You have to be careful at first, but after the second or third day doing the loop, you will feel comfortable. Still, it’s best to be careful and wear a helmet.
If you definitively don’t feel comfortable doing the loop on a motorbike, you can always take the bus.
The route
I started in Chiang Mai, which is the biggest city you’ll pass by in the loop and a main destination for travelers.
After doing my research, I settled for the following route:
- Day 1: Chiang Mai — Mae Chaem
- Day 2: Mae Chaem — Mae Hong Son
- Day 3: Mae Hong Son — Sappong
- Day 4: Sappong — Pai
- Day 5–6: Stay in Pai
- Day 7: Pai to Chiang Mai
All the places mentioned in this post
Getting Started
The first thing you need is, well, obviously a bike. In Chiang Mai, there are many places where you can rent one, and they go from very informal to established companies.
One important thing to consider is that when renting a bike, depending on the company, they may ask you:
- To keep your passport and a deposit, or…
- A larger deposit without keeping your passport.
Not all places allow you not to leave your passport, or they may ask you for a larger deposit if you don’t leave it, so it’s best to ask around at a couple of shops.
Mr. Mechanic Bike rental
I decided to go for Mr. Mechanic. This is a well-established company, and it’s recommended by Lonely Planet. It might be a bit more expensive than the others, but they offer a good service and additional insurance if you are interested.
If you are wondering which motorbike to rent, make sure it’s above 100cc, so you don’t have any problems when going uphill. I went with 125cc and it was perfect for one person.
When you rent a bike, make sure everything is working, including the speed meter, the ignition, the lights and make sure you get a comfortable and safe helmet (the ones that cover all your head instead of just the top).
Picking a bike tip: If you can pick a bike, try going for one that is scratched or doesn’t look new, so in case you scratch it, it will be less likely they notice and charge you for it.
What to pack?
Carry only what you are going to use during the trip. You can leave the rest of your luggage at the bike renting shop. Your hostel might also let you leave it there for a couple of days if you ask nicely. I left it at my hostel (@25hostel) and they had no issue with that.
Keep in mind it may get cold in some places during the loop, so bring a light jacket and a pair of long pants. Always carry sunscreen and mosquito repellent with you.
Navigation
To move around, download the free Maps.me app on your phone and download the map of Thailand. Bookmark the locations you want to visit and check if it’s working before leaving. I also recommend having a power bank for when your battery is running low.
Heres is a map file of the Mae Hong Son Loop with all the places mentioned in this post. You can download it and open it in maps.me.
Mobile Data
While doing the loop, having data is a lifesaver when it comes to finding a place to stay or altering your route. Buy a SIM with data for a week to have just in case you need it. You can find very cheap SIMs and if you are planning as you go, it will give you greater flexibility.
Heading out solo vs with someone
If you are a solo traveler, you can definitely do the loop by yourself, it’s a great experience. Just be more careful on the road than you would with someone else.
Fuel
Fuel can be hard to stumble upon in some parts of the loop, so it’s always better to fill your tank when you see a gas station and don’t let it get too low.
Having said that, you can also find some shops that sell fuel in plastic bottles. I never had problems with fuel, but when I was running very low, it was always a relief to find these shops.
Day One — Chiang Mai to Mae Chaem (140 km)
From Chiang Mai, you will be going to Doi Inthanon Mountain and then to Mae Chaem.
Try to leave Chiang Mai before noon, otherwise, it might get dark before you get to Mae Chaem, which happened to me.
When I did the loop, I left Chiang Mai in the afternoon. It got dark and started to rain before arriving at Mae Chaem. The road got very slippery and at some point, my bike slid. Luckily I was going slow, and I just jumped off the bike and nothing happened, except the bike got a few scratches.
Doi Inthanon National Park
On your way to Mae Chaem, you can go Doi Inthanon mountain, the highest place in Thailand. It’s a long way up, but once you get there you won’t feel like you are in Thailand, because it’s cold and the vegetation is completely different.
To get inside the national park, you have to pay a 300 baht fee per person, and an extra 20 baht per motorcycle (2017 prices).
Top of the mountain trail: There is a trail at the top where you can see the vegetation and walk in the nature.
Thai National Observatory: There is also an observatory close to the top. I decided to take a look around and a guy working there approached me and gave me a tour of the telescope!
Pra Ma Ha Tat Temple: This is a very famous temple at the top of the mountain. It has stunning views worth checking out.
Mae Chaem
After the mountain, you will be heading to Mae Chaem, a charming little town with a small market. Here is where you will be staying for the night.
Sleep: Kwan Lah Homestay
Cost: US $9 for a bed in a 4-bed mixed dormitory room
This hostel is run by a very friendly Thai couple. It’s a well-thought-out hostel, with a rustic feel, a nice garden and a place to have breakfast outside. I stayed in the shared dormitory and it was delightful. The place has a good price, it’s clean and the owners are very helpful, I definitely recommend it. There is a temple near the hostel which played chants through some speakers early in the morning, but I had to wake up early so it wasn’t a problem.
Food
The hostel’s owner recommended a restaurant in front of the town school to have dinner, and it was amazing. I just told him I was starving and wanted curry, and he wrote something on a piece of paper and told me to go there. Needless to say, it was delicious.
No name for this restaurant, it’s in front of the town school
The delicious curry the hostel’s owner wrote on a piece of paper
Day two — Mae Chaem to Mae Hong Son (190 km)
On the second day, you will be traveling to Mae Hong Son and you will have the chance to visit the rice fields in Mae Chaem.
Rice Fields
Depending on how long you have been traveling in Thailand or Southeast Asia, you might be tired of seeing rice fields or not. Me personally, I love seeing them and passing through them.
The rice fields in Mae Chaem are a bit hard to get to due to the road. It can get muddy and difficult if there is rain. I had no major problem, but if you prefer not getting into that situation, then it’s better to skip it.
If you decide to go, you will find a beautiful view full of rice paddies everywhere. There is a place where you can have a drink, see the view and walk around the paddies.
Mae Hong Son
After the rice paddies, you will be heading to Mae Hong Son, It’s a long but enjoyable ride, and you will find a couple of small towns on the way where you can stop, rest and eat something.
Mae Hong Son is a bigger town than Mae Chaem with a beautiful lake in the center. When you get to the city, I recommend seeing the sunset at this lake.
There is also a temple called Wat Phrathat Doi Kongmu on top of a mountain where you can see the town from above, so that could be a nice place to see the sunset too. I decide to go there the next day in the morning.
Sleep: Lakeside Garden
Price: US $10 for a private double bedroom
I ended up finding a place to stay in front of the lake with a private room for a good price. The place was nice, simple and clean, but if I had the chance to visit again, I would like to try a different place.
Food
Lake Market: Next to the lake there is a market where you can find all sorts of Thai Food. Here, I bought a papaya salad and ate it on a bench next to the lake.
Main Market: The main market is located next to the town’s airport. It’s a large market with all sorts of products. I went there to have breakfast and it was so good! Look for a place with lots of locals eating, a sign that it’s cheap and delicious. I always look at what people are eating and just point to what I want to order.
Day Three — Mae Hong Son to Ban Rak Thai to Sappong (160 km)
On your third day, you will have the chance to visit the border with Myanmar in a beautiful town called Ban Rak Thai and then head to the famous caves in Sappong.
Long Neck Karen Village
Relatively close to Mae Hong Son, you can visit a small Karen community, where women have coils around their necks to make it appear longer. To be honest, I wasn’t sure about going, since they are technically refugees and I read it has turned into a sort of “human zoo”. You are supposed to pay a fee to enter the community and it’s not clear where that money goes to.
After thinking about it, I decided that I had to see them, but only with the condition that if I had to pay any fee, I would not go inside.
The road to get to the community is not an easy one. It can be muddy, steep and full of holes in the road, so again, if you don’t feel comfortable riding a bike in these conditions, it’s better to skip it.
Before making it to the community, you will pass by a guarded gate with a sign that has the word refugees in it. Again, the whole experience felt a bit weird.
After making it to the community, it was very quiet, with no signs of having to pay a fee to enter and only a couple of visitors, mainly two Thai uniformed soldiers that were passing through and taking some pictures of the women.
The women with the long necks were outside in small shops selling souvenirs. After a couple of minutes, I bought a souvenir from one of the ladies, politely asked her for a photo and left. It looks like the women use the souvenirs as a source of income, so I guess in a sense they live from tourism, but it still felt a bit off.
After no more than 15 minutes, I went back to the route to Rak Bai
Ban Rak Thai
The next destination is Ban Rak Thai, a Chinese themed town on the border with Thailand and Myanmar.
On your way there you will see several coffee shops. Coffee in this region is famous for its flavour, so a quick stop to have coffee is definitely worth it.
I stopped at a place called “Na Pa Paek Coffee Farm & Shop” and got to meet the owners of the coffee shop. They were so passionate about their coffee that after talking for a while, they took me to see how they selected and roasted their coffee.
When you get to Ban Rak Thai, you will see a beautiful lake in what feels like an out-of-place Chinese town, complete with its own Chinese wall inspired hotel. The town is great to have lunch, relax for a while and get ready to depart to Sappong.
Sappong
Once you arrive at Sappong, you will probably be exhausted from riding all day, so relax, have some nice food and get ready for cave exploring the next day.
Sleep: Cave Lodge
When I arrived at Sappong it was already dark and I was feeling pretty tired, so I stopped at the closest place I could stay the night. I ended up staying in Jungle House, a guesthouse with a couple of wood cabins. They were very rustic cabins, and there could be a lot of insects for some people.
There is also a cool hostel called Cave Lodge, which is popular for its cave related activities. I visited this hostel the day after and I would love to have stayed there the night before.
Food
There aren’t a lot of places to eat in Sappong, but there are a couple of restaurants on the main road and a 7Eleven to re-stock your supplies. In the morning, there was a couple selling delicious sticky rice with mango and banana in front of 7eleven.
Day Four — Sappong to Pai (90 km)
The morning after sleeping in Sappong, get ready for some cave exploring and heading to beautiful Pai.
Lod Cave and Coral Cave
Lod Cave is easy to access and not far from Sappong, so it’s a great place to stop if you are into caves. Lod Cave is very popular with tourists, so it feels more like a guided tour than exploring a cave.
To go inside the cave you have to pay an entrance fee and the tour guide.
Coral cave is a less visited place and feels a bit more adventurous. You have to go inside with a guide as well. It is fun, but I feel two caves was enough for me to visit.
Pai
After visiting the caves, you will be heading to Pai. Once you get there, congratulations! You have come a long way and now it’s time to relax, enjoy the food, the attraction, and if you are into it, the partying.
Sleep: Mr. Jan Guesthouse
Price: US $7 for a private cabin
Before going to Pai, I meet a backpacker that told me about these private cabins called Mr. Jan Guesthouse at a super low price. It’s a family run guesthouse, and while the cabins are a bit old, they are clean, comfortable and cheap, so I would definitely recommend this place to stay.
Day Five to Six — Pai
You have been riding for a long time now, so Pai is the perfect place to relax, go out and have fun.
Buddha Bamboo Bridge
Around 45 minutes away from Pai you have these beautiful rice fields with a bamboo bridge. Here, you can just walk around and enjoy nature.
Pai Cannon
Just outside Pai, there is beautiful cannon with great views of the valley. Going here at sunset is a must, but beware that lots of people come here for the sunset as well. Luckily, the cannon is relatively big, so if you wander away from the main entrance point, you will have no trouble finding a quiet spot to enjoy the sunset.
Big Buddha
If you want an alternative spot to check out the sunset, you can go visit the white big buddha. What I did was see the start of the sunset at Pai Cannon and then quickly headed to the Big Buddha to see the rest of the sunset.
Street Market
Being more touristic than the rest of the stops in the loop, Pai caters for a lot of different tastes in its street market. You can find everything from sushi, green smoothies, pancakes and gourmet burgers.
Day Seven — Pai to Chiang Mai (130 km)
The last ride of the trip, say goodbye to beautiful Pai and go back to Chiang Mai. At this point, you might feel like a pro riding a bike, but always remember to be careful and not take it too fast!
Questions
Is there something I missed, or you wish to know about the Chiang Mai Loop? Let me know and I will answer as best as I can.